It's been 10 years since last visiting the country of kiwis, silver ferns and the Haka of the Maori. With the posting and move of Tyler, Rachel, Everly and Cora to Wellington on the north island and having always wanting to return to the land of the All Blacks, what more of an excuse would we need? We will be mixing time with family, touring by self drive with friends Sue and Eric to the South Island and a side trip to Bali and the Island of Komodo and the Komodo Dragon. NAU MAI!!
Wednesday, 12 February 2025
Wellington Strait (Cook) to Picton
On our first day to Wellington we had the pleasure of being escorted by Rachel, now a full time resident and travel guide. The journey began with a very efficient train ride downtown which took all of maybe 15 minutes and a $5 one way ticket. A ride up the cable car is a must and if you don’t know by now, a trip to the botanical gardens is always on the itinerary.
The Marori culture is evident everywhere and it is strongly embraced and practised. Biculturalism takes on a very strong presence everywhere. It is recognized and respected much more here than at home with our indigenous peoples. We had just missed New Zealand's national Waitangi Day, which is celebrated on February 6th. This day commemorates the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. It continues to be a very controversial subject but the treaty is still honoured and the basis for their constitution.
We were feeling comfortable enough to get around without the help of our trusted guide, so on day two we ventured out on our own. Back on the train we headed back into the very modern and extremely clean capital of the country. I tried to book a tour to get into the Bee Hive which is the nickname for their parliament buildings. Unfortunately it was sold out but I made reservations for our return visit in approximately a month. Wellington has one of the most impressive museums we have had the pleasure of visiting. The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa which translates to “our container of treasured things and people that spring from mother earth here in New Zealand” is a wonderful interactive experience for both young and old. We spent the better part of the day there with a reward of drinks and dinner on the harbour front. Reminiscent of many harbour promenades, it reminded me of both Halifax and Cape Town but I guess that can be said of any harbour front in any major cty. Maori canoes and sail boats share the bay equally with both cruise ships and inter island ferries An additional ship in harbor was the controversial enviromental ship the The Sea Sheperd. Previously it was captained by the flambouyant Paul Watson who campaigned against illegal poaching and whaling.There was a definite vibe and the sunny afternoon just added that extra WOW factor to the setting.
The following day, we again engaged the services of our resident guide and the order of the day was a short hike at a local nature reserve to a small waterfall (See Video)followed by lunch of course and a couple of frothy drinks.
Tomorrow is an early rise and a 3 ½ hour ferry ride across the Cook Strait to Picton. The forecast is for light winds and sunny skies. I hope the Gods are looking favorably down on us. We will pick up our car and do the one hour drive to Nelson to meet up with our friends Eric and Sue who will be flying in from Auckland. It will be a combined effort doing a self drive around the south island together for the next 10 days. Nau Mai!!
Sunday, 9 February 2025
Three Vineyards and a Lighthouse
It was an effort to get to Wellington but the welcome we got from the grandchildren was well worth the effort.
We’ll get plenty of opportunity to spend time with them but alas it was a holiday long weekend and while they took advantage to go on a three night canoeing trip we would spend our time heading north over the Remutaka Mountain range on our way to Martinborough and the Wairarapa Wine Trail. The Martinborough Hotel, which was built in the late 1800’s seemed like a typical New England Inn. Originally built to accommodate stagecoaches and travellers on their way north to Auckland, it was a delightful respite from our three day and four flights of crossing the International Date Line to reach Wellington. Our first meal of rack of lamb and a New Zealand Pinot Noir, and then our bed was a welcome comfort to try and reset the internal clock.
After a very relaxing and comfortable sleep in, along with breakfast, we decided to drive out to Cape Palliser and it’s lighthouse built in 1897. A beautiful sunny day and a lovely drive along the coast with a stop for fish and chips was the order of the day, seal sightings included. The scenery was reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands, flocks of sheep scattered throughout the area and a stop at a lovely community Presbyterian church only reinforced that image. On the way back, I figured it was time to find our first vineyard to take in a late afternoon complete with a cold white. Not to be disappointed, we found our first winery by the name of Luna Estate and along with a couple of glasses of chilled Sauvignon Blanc and an appetizer of Edamames (lightly sautéed soya beans with garlic in sesame oil and spices) we were properly initiated to the wine culture of the region.
The following day we embarked on a 20 km cycle circumnavigation of the region. The temperatures were well into the 30’s with not a cloud in the sky and though mostly flat, there was a time when we said we should have splurged on the E-bikes. One climb up and over the ridge was particularly trying but fortunately a roadside café gave us the energy to carry forward.
A particularly timely find was the Runholder Vineyard and its strikingly beautiful gardens, dining room and menu. The two glasses of Chardonnay made me particularly sleepy. Unfortunately there were no hammocks to nap in following our yummy lunch of heritage tomatoes and humus.
The following day we were back on the road (driving on the left hand side) in Rachel’s 2003 Daihatsu which she had graciously lent to us. Not a lot of pep and get up and go but it was very comfortable and suited our needs perfectly. We were on our way back to Wellington and you guessed it. LUNCH at another vineyard This time it was a much smaller family run venue with a savory and tasty cheese plate including the recommended Pinot Gris. I was driving, so only one glass please. The owner, originally from Ireland, has been in the country for the past 26 years said that the temperature was +33C in the shade. The views were remarkable with the mountains in the background and the occasional fluffy cloud hanging above the peaks.
Back to Wellington and some downtime with Tyler, Rachel, Everly and Cora. Nau Mai!!
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